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1、<p><b>  附錄(外文文獻(xiàn))</b></p><p><b>  原文 </b></p><p>  Trend prediction</p><p>  Trend prediction information is much broader than ‘fashion prediction’ in t

2、hat it may not be specifically related to fashion. Trends are recorded and trend predictors (looking for patterns of human behaviour, indicating changing markets or new consumer needs) constantly monitor the media and so

3、ciety.</p><p>  Many industries use trend prediction to forecast relevant changes and plan product development, for example the interest in all things spiritual was forecast by Faith Popcorn, initially in th

4、e ‘Popcorn Report’ and was developed and continued in ‘Clicking’.</p><p>  Spirituality is seen in the interest of such things as ‘Feng Shui’ which is a popular approach to interior design. Bookstores now ha

5、ve shelves dedicated to spirituality, as individuals look inwards to discover themselves in a fast-moving world.</p><p>  The fashion prediction consultancy relies on experts in a variety of fields for its s

6、tructure. They have personnel all over the world to help in gathering intelligence.</p><p>  The full-time staffing of a consultancy generally consists of the editor who creates the company philosophy. The p

7、ublisher, on the technical side, puts the information together. The retailing and merchandising professionals and fashion directors work on consultancy for individual clients, by applying the general fashion trends more

8、specifically to their needs. They must be skilled in, and aware of, a variety of markets. This could, for example, involve developing exclusive collection strategies,</p><p>  The objective is to work closel

9、y with the client to determine their concerns, goals and potential customers with a view to tailor-making a design solution.</p><p>  The success of prediction companies relies on pinpointing trends and deve

10、loping these for individual markets at the right time! Trends may be affected by social, cultural, political and economic moods, as well as evolutions in lifestyle, technological developments, media and retailing. This i

11、nformation is tapped and recorded by international correspondents who provide up-to-date intelligence from fashion capitals, such as London, Paris, Milan, New York, Florence and Tokyo.</p><p>  The design te

12、am determines how this intelligence affects fashion and consumer awareness.</p><p>  Designers/Illustrators are employed with design skills in menswear, womenswear and childrenswear, and illustration skills

13、in interpreting and developing silhouette themes, knit and woven samples, print stories and accessories. They visualise new ideas developed from the trend information and consider carefully figure proportions and styliza

14、tion so that any personnel, using the service, can understand what is suggested by the visual.</p><p>  International agents promote and sell the service to clients worldwide, for example in Los Angeles, Tok

15、yo, London and Paris.</p><p><b>  Colour</b></p><p>  Colour is the first consideration of season and is produced for autumn/winter and spring/summer ranges.</p><p>  Th

16、e colour is put into dye 18 months ahead of the specified season (some clients may require this information up to 2 years earlier, but this may not be shown in the final presentation box).</p><p>  Fibre and

17、 fabric manufacturers require advanced information regarding colour as they have to develop their product early enough for designers and garment manufacturers to buy it and in turn develop their product. Presentation pac

18、ks are usually presented with a fixed range of colour and a removable range so that clients can develop their own colour combinations. Colour packages are included in the subscription price and may be sold separately to

19、clients who only require colour information and not</p><p>  The follows the setting of the mood for a new season by developing fabric and silhouette themes. Prediction consultancies produce a variety of mat

20、erials and publications for their clients.</p><p>  Directional themes and full-figure silhouette illustrations of menswear, womenswear and childrenswear together with accessories are shown. Included in the

21、publication may be exclusive handlooms for wovens, knits and prints produced by freelance and in-house designers.</p><p>  Commercial fabrics may be published at this time, derived from fabric fairs such as,

22、 Premiere Vision, Interstoff and Prato. These are created from hand cut and stuck swatches of directional fabrics relating to the season’s previously predicted themes.</p><p>  The fashion prediction design

23、process</p><p>  One publication is worked in at a time (there may be 12-one a month, or more, depending upon the size of the consultancy and its breadth of expertise).</p><p>  A company that d

24、evelops its own thematic material will hold a succession of meetings with the core team resulting in decisions being made regarding the amount and content of the themes for a particular season, including evocative names.

25、 This is achieved by discussion. Each individual states what they fell will be a strong trend in the coming season. Where one idea is repeated by several members it is incorporated into the plan for the book. Where simil

26、ar ideas are mentioned they are amalgamated </p><p>  A colour palette is decided upon. The colours are divided into groups corresponding with the themes. Some colours unavoidably overlap, but as main and ac

27、cent colours alter the overall impression, each theme is sufficiently different.</p><p>  The designers then start designing. The walls are covered with tear sheets from magazines, separated into appropriate

28、 themes as inspiration. Photographs from the trade fairs are used for guidance on design details.</p><p>  Fabrics are then discussed in conjunction with the designers designing the garments. It is important

29、 to consider the balance of outerwear and separates fabrics. When decided, lengths of fabric and any interesting accessories are ordered to provide swatches for the books.</p><p>  After the designs are comp

30、leted they are illustrated with reference to particular markets and ‘lifestyles’ and to capture the ‘essence of the themes’. Technical drawings are also produced, either by the design team or by freelance illustrators.&l

31、t;/p><p>  Samples of knitwear and new textiles may be commissioned which will be photographed for the books.</p><p>  Mood boards, containing visuals, fabric and trim, depicting the themes, are co

32、mpleted. The mood boards are sent away to be photographed and return as transparencies.</p><p>  During the process of compilation, agents worldwide will have seen securing old and new clients, to whom the b

33、ooks will be sent on completion. a master copy of the book is compiled and sent to the printers to have a sample copy printed and bound. The copy is checked for any mistakes before the book goes into production.</p>

34、;<p>  Travel is an important aspect of fashion research and visiting trade fairs allows reports to be compiled which observe not only trends apparent from the exhibitors’ displays, but also from the people (who a

35、re mainly from the fashion industry) as they walk around the shows. This exercise helps to understand the differences in international fashion, which is important when catering for foreign clients. </p><p> 

36、 Theme development</p><p>  Fashion prediction for a new season is usually promoted as a series of ‘themes’. These are designed to inspire and direct the designer for a number of markets. Themes, often, are

37、given names to evoke feelings and moods and reflect the content of the theme. Each theme may appeal to one or more markets and requires interpretation from the designer to develop for their particular market. Often the p

38、rediction company offers some consultation to the designer which is helpful in this development. </p><p>  Markets are usually defined by cost of the merchandise. Nowadays the markets referred to have vague

39、names such as boutique, fashion aware, better end, pm dressing. This is more reflective of changes in ‘lifestyle’.</p><p>  These can be interpreted into customers buying from:</p><p>  Lower ma

40、rket – budget; lower middle – high street, chain stores; middle – independent labels and department stores; upper middle – designer diffusion; upper – designer.</p><p>  Fashion prediction themes have often

41、been very literal in their nature: nautical would show striped sweaters and sailor hats; utility always involve dungarees of some description and multiple pockets. A chic, tailored look may well involve a French beret.&l

42、t;/p><p>  It is important that visual codes are identifiable and mean similar things to different people. The illustration must work hard to convey a mood, an attitude, in the pose, that convinces the viewer a

43、bout the sort of person that is being targeted.</p><p>  Similarly, a total look is always helpful because accessories can contribute to not only the communication of the theme, but may also convey the type

44、of person who would wear the ‘look’.</p><p>  It is important that the proportion is believable and that the information is clear. Themes nowadays are less literal and are more about mixing ideas together to

45、 create something fresher. ‘Lifestyle’ has become important, consequently themes may not be put into an evocative setting which helps to create the correct mood. Less clothing detail is on view but the message allows the

46、 designer to make their own interpretations.</p><p>  New uses of technology have resulted in the development of the Worth Global Style Network (WGSN) who produce a comprehensive on-line service to fashion i

47、ndustry. Members pay an annual subscription to view the full site; students may visit an educational version free of charge (for a limited period). The services available are: news updates daily; women’s, men’s, youth an

48、d children’s trends; city reports from London, Paris, Milan, New York and Tokyo plus seasonal reports from new and trendsetting</p><p><b>  譯文:</b></p><p><b>  流行趨勢(shì)預(yù)測(cè)</b>

49、</p><p>  流行趨勢(shì)預(yù)測(cè)信息所包含的內(nèi)容要比時(shí)裝預(yù)測(cè)豐富得多,原因是其不一定與時(shí)裝有關(guān)。流行趨勢(shì)是會(huì)被記錄下來(lái)的。趨勢(shì)預(yù)測(cè)者(尋找人類行為特點(diǎn),指出變化中的市場(chǎng)或新興的消費(fèi)需求)會(huì)對(duì)媒體及社會(huì)不斷地進(jìn)行監(jiān)測(cè)。</p><p>  許多行業(yè)都使用趨勢(shì)預(yù)測(cè)來(lái)預(yù)測(cè)相關(guān)變化并制定產(chǎn)品開發(fā)計(jì)劃。例如,費(fèi)絲?波普康(Faith Popcorn)預(yù)測(cè)了人們對(duì)所有精神事物的興趣。最初是在《爆米花

50、報(bào)告》(‘Popcorn report’ )中進(jìn)行的預(yù)測(cè),后來(lái)又進(jìn)行了擴(kuò)展并繼續(xù)在《新爆米花報(bào)告》(‘Clicking’)中進(jìn)行預(yù)測(cè)。</p><p>  人們認(rèn)為精神性是符合諸如‘風(fēng)水’此類東西的利益的?!L(fēng)水’是室內(nèi)設(shè)計(jì)普遍采用的方法。當(dāng)今的書店都設(shè)立了論述精神性書籍的書架,主要是由于現(xiàn)代世界變化迅猛,人們都希望進(jìn)行內(nèi)省從而來(lái)發(fā)現(xiàn)自我。</p><p>  從事流行款式預(yù)測(cè)的咨詢公司只

51、有依靠各領(lǐng)域的專家才能形成自己的體系。它們?cè)谑澜绺鞯鼐陀萌藛T來(lái)收集情報(bào)。</p><p>  咨詢公司的專職人員一般包括編輯(制定公司的宗旨),出版人(從技術(shù)的角度將信息匯總),零售與推銷專業(yè)人員及時(shí)裝經(jīng)理(為個(gè)人客戶提供咨詢,將時(shí)裝的總體趨勢(shì)更具體地用來(lái)滿足他們的需要)。這些人員必須具備必要的技能并了解各種市場(chǎng)。例如,這些技能可能包括開發(fā)獨(dú)特的收集戰(zhàn)略;紡紗機(jī),織布機(jī),紡織印花機(jī),男人,婦女及兒童服裝的概念與

52、設(shè)計(jì);鞋子與附件的生產(chǎn)商,以及零售商的自有品牌。還有可能需要他們向新客戶銷售訂閱雜志。</p><p>  其目標(biāo)是與客戶一起緊密合作,確定他們都關(guān)心些什么,他們的目標(biāo)是什么及確定潛在客戶,以便制定個(gè)性化設(shè)計(jì)方案。</p><p>  預(yù)測(cè)公司的成功取決于準(zhǔn)確確定趨勢(shì)并及時(shí)為個(gè)性化市場(chǎng)開發(fā)這些趨勢(shì)。趨勢(shì)受社會(huì),文化,政治及經(jīng)濟(jì)氣氛以及生活方式的變化,技術(shù)發(fā)展,媒體與零售的影響。本信息是由國(guó)

53、際記者開發(fā)并記錄的。他們從時(shí)裝之都,如倫敦,巴黎,米蘭,紐約,佛羅倫薩及東京,提供最新的情報(bào)。</p><p>  設(shè)計(jì)小組確定該情報(bào)會(huì)如何影響時(shí)裝及消費(fèi)者們的意識(shí)。</p><p>  雇用了具有男女與兒童服飾設(shè)計(jì)技能及說(shuō)明并開發(fā)廓形主題,針織與機(jī)織樣品,印花織物的詳情與附件說(shuō)明技能的設(shè)計(jì)人員/說(shuō)明人員。他們將從趨勢(shì)信息開發(fā)而來(lái)的新思維形象化并仔細(xì)考慮體形的比例及風(fēng)格,以便使用服務(wù)的任何

54、人員都能清楚視覺資料的含義。</p><p>  國(guó)際代理向世界各地,如洛杉磯,東京,倫敦及巴黎,的客戶推銷并銷售服務(wù)。</p><p><b>  預(yù)測(cè)流行色</b></p><p>  顏色是季節(jié)首要考慮的問題,是根據(jù)秋/冬及春/夏的類別而確定的。</p><p>  在所說(shuō)季節(jié)到來(lái)之前的18個(gè)月用染料染出顏色(有些

55、客戶最多可能要求提前兩年提供該信息,但最終的外觀盒可能沒有給出該信息。)。</p><p>  纖維及織物生產(chǎn)商要求提供顏色的超前信息,因?yàn)樗麄円嵩玳_發(fā)出產(chǎn)品供設(shè)計(jì)人員及服裝生產(chǎn)商進(jìn)行購(gòu)買并轉(zhuǎn)而開發(fā)他們的產(chǎn)品。外觀盒的顏色通常是固定并可除去的,這樣客戶可開發(fā)自己的顏色。訂購(gòu)價(jià)格中包括了彩色包裝。只需要顏色信息而不需要其他服務(wù)的客戶也可單獨(dú)購(gòu)買彩色包裝。</p><p>  他們通過(guò)開發(fā)織

56、物及廓型主題來(lái)確定新季節(jié)的色調(diào)。預(yù)測(cè)咨詢公司為客戶提供各種材料及雜志。</p><p>  它們給出指導(dǎo)性主題及包括附件在內(nèi)的男女,兒童服飾的完整廓型圖。雜志可能包括由從事自由職業(yè)的設(shè)計(jì)師及內(nèi)部設(shè)計(jì)師設(shè)計(jì)的獨(dú)特的手織機(jī)織物,針織物及印花織物。</p><p>  此時(shí)可能會(huì)發(fā)表來(lái)自織物博覽會(huì),如Premiere Vision, Interstoff與Prato,的商業(yè)織物,系與提前預(yù)測(cè)季節(jié)

57、主題有關(guān)的指導(dǎo)性織物的手工裁剪及粘貼樣布。</p><p><b>  流行預(yù)測(cè)設(shè)計(jì)過(guò)程</b></p><p>  每次安排一期雜志(每月可能會(huì)安排12期或更多。這取決于咨詢公司的規(guī)模及專業(yè)能力)。</p><p>  開發(fā)自有主題材料的公司會(huì)與核心團(tuán)隊(duì)召開一系列的會(huì)議來(lái)決定某一季節(jié)主題的數(shù)量及內(nèi)容,包括令人懷舊的名稱。他們是通過(guò)討論的方式做

58、出決定的。每位與會(huì)者均應(yīng)各抒己見,說(shuō)出他們認(rèn)為的下一季節(jié)的主流趨勢(shì)。如若數(shù)位與會(huì)者均由同一想法,則該想法會(huì)被包括在雜志的計(jì)劃中。如想法相似,則將這些想法融合在一起,得出主流及大家認(rèn)同的趨勢(shì)。</p><p>  然后確定調(diào)色板。根據(jù)主題將顏色分成不同的小組。有些顏色會(huì)重復(fù),這是不可避免的。但由于主要及重點(diǎn)顏色會(huì)改變總體印象,每個(gè)主題均是足夠不同的。 </p><p>  然后設(shè)計(jì)者們開始

59、進(jìn)行設(shè)計(jì)。他們將從雜志上撕下的圖片貼在墻上并將圖片按相關(guān)主題分類以獲得靈感。他們還用從行業(yè)博覽會(huì)獲得的照片來(lái)指導(dǎo)設(shè)計(jì)細(xì)節(jié)。</p><p>  然后與設(shè)計(jì)服裝的設(shè)計(jì)者討論織物問題。重要的是要考慮外衣與單件衣著織物之間的平衡。決定后就訂購(gòu)織物及任何感興趣的附件為雜志提供樣布。</p><p>  設(shè)計(jì)完成后將根據(jù)某個(gè)市場(chǎng)及‘生活方式’的要求進(jìn)行說(shuō)明,來(lái)抓住‘主題的精髓’。設(shè)計(jì)小組或從事自由職

60、業(yè)的說(shuō)明人員還會(huì)完成技術(shù)圖紙。</p><p>  可能會(huì)委托制作針織物及新紡織品的樣品,并為其拍照供雜志出版。</p><p>  然后做出用來(lái)說(shuō)明主題,含有視覺資料,織物及飾物的色調(diào)板。將色調(diào)板送走拍照,并以幻燈片的形式送還。</p><p>  在雜志的編輯過(guò)程中,位于世界各地的代理們會(huì)看到牢靠的新老客戶們,以便于在雜志編輯完成后將雜志寄送給他們。編輯一本原始

61、資料版,將其送到印刷公司印刷并裝訂一本樣品雜志。雜志在批量生產(chǎn)前前要對(duì)其內(nèi)容進(jìn)行校對(duì),找出錯(cuò)誤之處。</p><p>  旅行是時(shí)裝研究的重點(diǎn)之一。參加行業(yè)博覽會(huì)即可從參展者的展品又可從參觀者(主要來(lái)自時(shí)裝行業(yè))那里觀察出顯而易見的趨勢(shì),從而編寫出報(bào)道。這樣我們可清楚國(guó)際時(shí)裝的不同之處。這在招攬國(guó)外客戶時(shí)是十分重要的。</p><p><b>  主題開發(fā)</b>&l

62、t;/p><p>  新季節(jié)的時(shí)裝預(yù)測(cè)通常是以一系列的‘主題’進(jìn)行推銷的。設(shè)計(jì)這些主題的主要目的是就幾個(gè)市場(chǎng)給設(shè)計(jì)者提供靈感及指導(dǎo)。主題名稱設(shè)置通常是能夠激發(fā)感情及心境的,并能反映主題內(nèi)容。每個(gè)主題會(huì)對(duì)一個(gè)或多個(gè)市場(chǎng)有吸引力,并要求設(shè)計(jì)者就開發(fā)某個(gè)特定市場(chǎng)進(jìn)行說(shuō)明。預(yù)測(cè)公司通常向設(shè)計(jì)者提供某些咨詢幫助他們進(jìn)行開發(fā)。</p><p>  市場(chǎng)通常受商品成本的限制。當(dāng)今所說(shuō)市場(chǎng)的名稱通常都很模糊,

63、如boutique,fashion aware,better end及pm dressing。這更多地表明了‘生活方式’的變化。</p><p>  這些可被解釋成客戶從以下市場(chǎng)購(gòu)買:</p><p>  低端市場(chǎng) – 經(jīng)濟(jì)型;中低端市場(chǎng) – 商業(yè)街及連鎖店;中端市場(chǎng) – 獨(dú)立品牌及百貨商場(chǎng);中高端市場(chǎng) – 設(shè)計(jì)者傳播;高端市場(chǎng) – 設(shè)計(jì)者。</p><p>  有

64、關(guān)時(shí)裝預(yù)測(cè)的主題通常是很刻板的。有關(guān)航海的主題通常會(huì)展示條紋毛衣及水手帽。有關(guān)公用事業(yè)的主題通常會(huì)涉及某種粗藍(lán)布工作服及多個(gè)口袋。有關(guān)時(shí)髦,裁制衣服的主題通常會(huì)涉及法國(guó)貝雷帽。</p><p>  重要的是視覺資料的代碼應(yīng)是可識(shí)別的,對(duì)不同的人含義相近。說(shuō)明人員必須努力工作來(lái)傳達(dá)姿勢(shì)所表示的心情及態(tài)度,讓觀看者確信被觀者到底屬于哪類人。</p><p>  類似地,全套裝束也總是有幫助的。

65、因?yàn)楦郊粌H有助于傳達(dá)主題,而且還可幫助說(shuō)明該‘全套裝束’者屬于哪類人。</p><p>  重要的是比例要令人信服,信息要明了。當(dāng)今的主題已變得不那么刻板了,更看重的是把各種想法融合在一起來(lái)創(chuàng)造出更新穎的東西?!罘绞健兊酶匾?,所以主題就不一定還是耳熟能詳,可幫助獲得正確心情的了。展出的服裝細(xì)節(jié)更少了,但寓意著設(shè)計(jì)者可自己進(jìn)行說(shuō)明。</p><p>  技術(shù)的新用途導(dǎo)致了沃思全球

66、時(shí)裝網(wǎng)(WGSN) 的開發(fā),從而給時(shí)裝業(yè)提供了綜合在線服務(wù)。成員在支付訂閱年費(fèi)后可瀏覽整個(gè)網(wǎng)站。學(xué)生可訪問其教育版本一段時(shí)間,其費(fèi)用是免費(fèi)的。提供的服務(wù)有:每日最新新聞;婦女,男人及青年兒童的流行款式;來(lái)自倫敦,巴黎,米蘭,紐約及東京的城市報(bào)道,外加來(lái)自新興及新潮地區(qū)的季節(jié)報(bào)道;國(guó)際貿(mào)易博覽會(huì)日歷及生活方式報(bào)道 - 消費(fèi)者的態(tài)度,演變中的購(gòu)買特點(diǎn),季節(jié)劃分;模特表演及行業(yè)大事報(bào)道;圖形庫(kù);資源列表;許可報(bào)道 – 品牌,電影,運(yùn)動(dòng)項(xiàng)目,郵

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